Where the Murray River meets the sea

We spent a lovely day exploring part of the Coorong National Park where the Murray River finally meets the sea after its 2,530 km journey from the Australian Alps.

 We drove to Goolwa then over the Hindmarsh Bridge to Hindmarsh Island, where we drove a further 10kms or so to the river. Here was a large carpark,  a jetty, a caravan declaring itself the Coorong Cafe and a picnic area with chairs and tables. At the end of the jetty a fisherman was preparing for a catch. It was a peaceful coastal scene.

And here is the fisherman in close-up.

We checked out the menu and opted for the specialty - Coorong mulloway.

It was absolutely delicious.

After our lunch, we walked along the river flats where, in the distance, we could see the mouth of the Murray.

Along the way I spotted sea birds fishing in the shallows.

 It was an expansive landscape with the wide sandy stretch of beach, the seemingly endless flat coastal vegetation and a really big sky punctuated by rolling clouds.

 But I did manage to spot these colourful pink plants (which I have been unable to identify). But they certainly brightened up the coastline.

In the distance we could see a man searching for cockles...

 ... a fisherman...

 ... and the dredger that undertakes a 24-hour operation to ensure the mouth of the Murray (where fresh water meets the sea) is kept free of silt and sand in order to maintain a constant two-way flow between the sea and the river. This also ensures a healthy ecosystem in the Coorong.

Here I am looking directly at the mouth and the Southern Ocean. You can just make out the rolling surf in the distance.

 I then looked down to capture some lovely sand designs.

At the end of the beach was an interpretation sign explaining the spiritual significance of this section of the Coorong to the traditional owners of the land: the Ngarrindjeri.

Photo source: Richard Brown DWLBC

On our way back to the car I pondered how this bountiful coast would have looked like when the Ngarrindjeri roamed freely.

Apart from the dredging, not that much different really ...

Kate visits us

I was so excited when daughter Kate said she and her husband Kim were coming to visit for the Tour Down Under in mid-January. It was lovely when they arrived and settled in to our new home (or as Kim says, the Casa De Viejo).

Our excitement quickly turned to despair when we noticed the temperatures forecast for the next five days were all 39 to 43 degrees!!!! Ouch. Luckily our house is airconditioned, but going outside was like stepping into an oven. All our photos show us looking drained and exhausted. In the end I stopped taking photos.

Here is a sample so I can vicariously enjoy the visit once more.

Waiting for the riders to appear at the Tour Down Under.

We look exhausted in the heat as we wait for our cool drinks at the Yilki cafe! 

I know I used the next photo in my Tour Down Under blog but it's one of the few I have of Kate - even though she was embarrassed to be seen posing with the cycling kangaroos.

We drove to nearby Port Elliot for a welcome break from the cycling, hoping there might be some cooling sea breeze there.

Kim is aiming to capture Kate and the steam train which is coming round the bend.

The steam train - the only non-Kate photo - added for variety.

Always time for a selfie!

At the wetlands walk near home.

And a final shot with mum.

The final day saw us in Adelaide watching the criterium with the temperature soaring again into the 40s. It was so hot that, after some shots of the cyclists, I put my phone away and tried to enjoy the remaining moments with Kate.

When I look back, I see that there are no photos of us at home. I guess we were always so hot and bothered we just wanted to relax - and eat ice cream and jelly!

The Tour Down Under continues to swelter...

For those of you who find cycle racing tedious (philistines!) then read no more. However, for devotees like Kate, Kim and me it is magic and we were there at the final stage of the Tour Down Under: the 90km Criterium that sweeps around the centre of Adelaide.

Unfortunately, the temperature was already climbing into the high thirties (expected max. 43) as we drove to Adelaide in the stifling heat that never let up all day. Once in the city, we strolled along the roadside trying to find some shade and positioning ourselves for the first glimpse of the riders: this is always tremendously exciting. And here they come.....

And then closer,

and then they tackle the bend.

There were 20 laps in all, so we took it easy and watched on the big screen for a bit, then resumed our spot at the barrier. The peloton is strung out a little now and the riders are so close to us. Everyone is cheering and clapping as they speed past.

The heat was really getting to us so we had to stop for a cool milkshake and fizzy drinks. As an aside here: Kate gave her water bottle to an elderly lady who was just about to collapse in the heat. A security guard came and called an ambulance, but the woman gratefully accepted and demolished Kate's water. We were amazed at the lack of consideration the organisers gave to the public in response to this appalling heat. There were no places to refill water bottles,  no shade in the 'village' apart from a few sails in one small area, and no stalls selling drinks along the route; in addition, many cafes in the city were closed - did they think spectators wouldn't eat or drink???

The cyclists took care of themselves with drinks...

and food...

Here a rider is having a bit of a stretch by crouching down, though he doesn't seem very comfortable to me.

While this rider is keeping his cool and looks so at ease.

Round and round the route they went. It doesn't look like it in this photo but they are going really fast. I couldn't recognise anyone at the speed they were going.

I like this next photo: two riders at the front are chatting; one behind is crouching; one on the right further back is going into his jersey pouch for food. 

I wonder what they were talking about?

Eventually, there were only two laps to go... then one ... and excitement mounted. We watched as they came down the last stretch as they were sorting themselves out for the final sprint, though they still had a while to go here. 

But everyone started positioning themselves.

Just as they rounded the last bend near where we were standing, four riders crashed, but no-one was hurt - probably more annoyed and embarrassed as they quickly sorted their bikes out and rejoined the race!

Then I abandoned my camera to the cheers, cow-bell ringing and clapping as we followed the sprint on the big screen. In a flash it was all over. Kate and Kim were dropped off at the airport and I drove back to the relative cool of Encounter Bay. The Tour Down Under done for another year.

A sweltering Tour Down Under

I was so looking forward to this year's Tour Down Under. I was initiated into the world of cycling last year when I strolled into Victor Harbor to watch Stage 3 as the riders did three laps of the town in pleasant mid-twenties temperatures under a cloudless blue sky. It was a great day and I have been a convert ever since, following all the European Classics and Grand Tours on TV (while Steve remains steadfastly indifferent to the lure of the races with their tactics, the riders' incredible reserves of physicality and the gorgeous scenery).

But what a contrast was last year to this year's stage. The temperature was already hovering at the 38 degree mark as the riders left Adelaide in the morning. Wisely, the organisers decided to cut two laps of Victor bringing the race to 120 kms. Sadly for us locals, we were only to glimpse the riders twice as they whizzed past.

The upside was that daughter Kate and her husband Kim were in town. However, as determined as we were to cheer on the riders, we too succumbed to the treacherous heat.  Somehow (with a few bottles of water under our belt) we managed to last the distance until after the presentations.

The town was suitably decorated  (I love these racing kangaroos) and even forced poor Kate to pose with one.

We first needed to find a good place to position ourselves for when the riders came to town. It was a rather forlorn welcome for them as there were NO spectators save a few foolhardy people like us (whereas last year the crowds had lined all the streets 4-deep). But the bridge and nearby trees were decorated with colourful bows!!!!

We walked ...

We sat...

...we stood.

Finally, some action: the forerunner  to the race is the 'caravan' of sponsor cars which is always good fun to see.

 And then the police....

 and the helicopter hovering to alert us to the riders' approach...

... and here they come. I am now beside myself with excitement. They are certainly burning up the road. They have already ridden around 100kms in 40 degree heat, yet they look determined and professionally 'cool'.

And, just like that, in the blink of an eye, they have turned the corner and disappeared.

We followed the route to the finish line to try and position us as close to the barrier as we could for when they re-appeared for the final sprint, though with Kim's height of 6'7" he was not unduly worried. We figured the riders would reappear from their lap of the town and environs in about 15 minutes.

The commentators kept us informed and soon we were scanning the road for a sign of the riders.

 I decided to put my camera away and enjoy the finish. So no photos from me. World champion Peter Sagan raced right past me at around 70 kph and it didn't register. They whizz past so quickly before you even feel their presence. But Kim managed to effortlessly video the whole of the sprint finish from his phone, even panning to show the riders as they sped over the finish line - the dirty rat!!!!

We gave support to those at the back of the race as just finishing on a day like today was a feat in itself.

 And Kate hammered on the barrier as is the custom.

We had to wait a while for the presentations to give the winners a chance to cool down - while we were getting hotter and hotter as we stood in the open with the sun pouring down on us. Were we mad?

But it felt good to join the cheers as the winners received their trophy, a bunch of flowers and a toy koala! Here Italian Elia Viviani receives his bounty as today's first-over-the-line winner.

South African Nicholas Dlamini won a sprint AND a mountain climb.

Living legend Jens Voigt was a presenter. He is a hero for Kim who has even named his cat Jens.

Australian Caleb Ewan was a popular winner in the General Classification category.
 

We limped back to the car and collapsed in air-conditioned comfort back home. A fabulous though devilishly hot adventure. Later, we saw film of some of the riders jumping into the bay after the race for a well-deserved cooling off.