Exploring the Veneto Plain: Verona, Vicenza, Padua

For those of you who have been following my trip, you may be relieved to know that this is the final blog! After Venice we spent a week in three cities in the Veneto Plain: Verona, Vicenza and Padua.

VERONA
The fast train to Verona took an hour, whizzing us through the countryside where we glimpsed acres of vines, vegetables growing under huge domes, olive trees, stone houses...
We enjoyed our time in Verona - lots of history, a wonderful Renaissance garden and, amazingly, a fabulous Japanese restaurant.

In the centre of the town is the third largest amphitheatre in the world (after Rome's Colosseum and one in Naples). Built in the first century AD before the Colosseum, it is a massive structure with 44 tiers of seats; the interior had the highest ceilings I've ever seen. We saw the underground cells where they held the lions, tigers, bears and other wild beasts. As well as gladiatorial fights there was bear baiting and mock battles.

Today, a huge stage and plastic seats have been erected in the centre where gladiators used to do battle so, for me, that detracted from the overall atmosphere.

We came upon the Roman arch that was built in the 1st century AD to straddle the main road into Verona. It was moved in 1933 to a quieter spot to avoid further damage.

On another day we visited the Teatro Romano, a theatre built in the first century BC on a hillside overlooking the River Adige. The stone seats survive...

 ... as do a bit of the Roman walls.

The performing stage has disappeared and in its place there was a modern structure; ugly plastic seats have been placed over the original stone ones. A Shakespeare festival is held here annually.

We walked to the top of the hill behind the theatre where a museum is housed in a former monastery. I loved the mosaics - especially the set of four that showed gladiators at work (and at death).

When we strolled around the old part of Verona I felt that this was the Italy conjured up in many people's minds: very stylish women, people walking dogs everywhere, lots of snogging, expensive clothes shops, fountains and statues, gelato shops, pavement cafes, mediaeval houses, and lots of laughter.

A memorable day was our visit to the peaceful Giardino Giusti, a wonderful example of a  Renaissance garden. They were laid out in 1580.

The lower garden was all boxed hedges, statues and a maze. 

 Further on was a colourful flower garden with brightly coloured zinnias and cosmos vying for attention from white roses, daises and daturas. Along stone balustrades were potted citrus, a prized item at the time.

Climbing the narrow paths we discovered a woodland area with dark green yews and cypress that was quiet and cool.

In sharp contrast to these gardens was our trip to nearby Lake Garda, a one-hour bus ride away and a very popular spot for holidaymakers. It's the largest lake in Italy, being 51 kms long and 17 kms wide. We only visited the bottom bit, a finger of land that spreads out into the lake at its southern tip, known as the Sirmione Peninsula. Here we explored the atmospheric Scaligera Fortress with its drawbridge, moat, inner harbour, tremendously high walls, slotted windows through which arrows were rained down on invaders, and breathtaking views over the town and lake from the rooftop (after walking up a spiral staircase of 146 steps). Our guidebook said it is 'one of the most complete and best preserved fortifications in Italy' and we really enjoyed our visit.

Our castle visit was early in the morning before the bulk of tourists arrived, but when we were ready to leave they were pouring in in droves. The town itself too was packed full of tourists, so for a breathing space we set off for a lakeside walk.

VICENZA
An hour's train journey (not a fast train this time) and we were in Vicenza. After settling into the hotel we wandered through the city walls. It seemed an elegant town with stylish displays of clothes, bags, cosmetic, eyewear, books, shoes and flowers in shop windows.


However,  the place was literally deserted. What was going on? We found out later that everything is closed on Mondays!! Luckily one outdoor cafe was open. Nearby were huge columns forming an impressive loggia. It turned out that this was the town hall with the colonade designed by the influential architect Palladio - his first commission. His style was based on the classical temples of ancient Greece and Rome which adhered to symmetry and proportion, so his buildings all seemed very graceful to me. Here is his statue outside one of his buildings...

... and his first commission which established his style.

The next day the city was bustling with people everywhere, lots of cyclists and lots of bars!

We made the most of our two days here and on our last day visited the Teatro Olympico, Europe's oldest surviving indoor theatre. Yes, you guessed right - designed by Palladio in 1579 (who sadly died before it was finished). It's made of wood and plaster and painted to look like marble.

 I was overawed. It was amazing. The ceiling was painted to look like the sky. Statues lined the upper portions. Very wide wooden seats encircled the front of the stage. Evidently Palladio designed it to resemble the outdoor theatres of Greece hence the painted sky and semi-circle of 'stone' benches. 

 It was the first time perspective sets had been used. These sets gave the appearance of depth, and the ones here represent the streets of Thebes for the first play Oedipus Rex in 1585.  

Outside, the garden was decorated with a number of statues; this one caught my eye.

PADUA

Our final city was Padua, a university town.  Lots of cyclists, a bustling market, students, cafes, and, as we explored further, quiet winding streets full of atmosphere.

The highlight here for us was the World Heritage site botanical gardens. They are the oldest university gardens in the world and were established in 1543 so pupils could study medicinal plants. Over the years the collection grew until there are now plants from every corner of the world. I loved it because it was still set out in its original style (according to our guide pamphlet). 

Adjacent to the gardens was a recently constructed purpose-built Garden of Biodiversity. This had separate areas housing plants from all temperature zones of the earth: tropical , sub-tropical, temperate, Mediterranean and arid. Here Steve explores the tropical...

... while I enjoyed the succulents and this cactus.

And indulge me, if you will, for the last photo on this grand tour of mine.
Goodbye for now.

Autumn in Venice

We spent a week in Venice. We stayed at the delightfully named Palazzo Contarini della Porta di Ferro, a 17th century restored Venetian palace, its huge wooden door hidden down a very quiet street.

We went to all the famous places which were frightfully crowded, so enjoyed our time more when we visited quieter neighbourhoods. A highlight was an evening concert we attended at the church where composer Vivaldi preached. It is now a concert venue. The 7-piece orchestra played Vivaldi's Four Seasons and other Baroque works - an obvious choice and definitely for tourists, but it was wonderful and we loved every minute of it.  

There was so much to see in Venice that I've sorted my photos into various categories.

Classic Venice

Part of St Mark's Square

The Doge's Palace

The Rialto Bridge

Waiting for a fare.
Even at 80 Euros for a 45-minute ride (100 Euros in the evening) gondaliers never rested for long.

Crumbling Venice

Venice details

Carnival masks, the principal souvenir, ranged from 5 to hundreds of Euros.

The lion of Venice was everywhere.

On top of the column in St Marks Square.

Crowded Venice

Fashion Venice

In a museum...
 

People in Venice

People were taking selfies everywhere.
I was lucky to get this - just the right timing.

Quirky Venice

Eating in Venice

The hot chocolates were the best ever!

Almost all my meals were lasagne.

The waiter suggested Steve wear a bib! 

The gelato were to die for.

Historical Venice
First up: statues

The Doge's Palace was enormous. We couldn't believe our good luck to be first in line at 8.30am and find nobody there. It was built in the 14th century for the Doge, the highest political position in the Venetian Republic. The beautiful paintings, sculptures and decorations were created for the palace, not moved here from elsewhere, so it really did feel authentic and as if, (cliche alert), you are stepping back in time.

Our ticket got us into other museums where we were able to soak up Venetian history. 

The Palace of Franz Josef 1 Emperor of Austria and his wife Elizabeth

They lived here for a while in 1856; the rooms have recently been restored.

 The Printing Museum

The Printing Museum told the history of printing.

The Coin Museum

Coins of unbelievable antiquity

Archaeological Museum
I enjoyed this space as it was mostly huge friezes, statues and tops of columns that would have graced enormous buildings. Almost everything here was HUGE.

The Armoury
Apart from the helmets, axes, swords and suits of armour here, I liked the shadows they created.

Islands in the lagoon
We caught a vaporetto and visited two islands in the Venetian lagoon, an hour away from Venice.

Burano 
The island is famous for its brightly coloured houses. They really were this colourful.

The island used to be famous for its lace but nowadays most of it is made in China!

This was a very lacy shop!!!!

 We walked over a footbridge which linked the island to another smaller one - Mazzorbo, a gentle landscape of vineyards, orchards and gardens.

Torcello
Back on the vaporetto, we ventured further on to the small island of Torcello. My guidebook said it was established in the 5th century and once had 20,000 people, with palaces, churches and homes. Today there are only 60 inhabitants and a Byzantine cathedral, the only remains of the island's glorious past. Ernest Hemingway was entranced by the island and stayed here in 1948, writing, hunting and fishing.

Pomegranates grew in profusion.

I loved the air of mystery here.

Chestnuts

Lost in Venice
We were continually perplexed with the maze of alleys that bore no resemblance to the myriad maps consulted. And were subsequently constantly lost.

I am ending with a photo that will mean nothing to anyone but Steve and me. This is the window of a  photo shop not far from our palazzo. Every time we passed it (which was often) we knew where we were. It was like a homing beacon for us. We kept saying 'Ah,  Salvador Dali and Sophia Loren. We know where we are.' (Except we found out later that it was Gina Lollabrigida.)