Monday, 4 April 2016

Writer Obsessions

Ernest Hemingway
Last year I became intrigued with Ernest Hemingway. I had read The Old Man and the Sea in high school but that's all.  It was after I read The Paris Wife by Paula McLain, a fictionalised but very moving account of his first marriage, that I wanted to know more about the man, his life and his writings. I found a fairly basic biography ( Ernest Hemingway: A Writer's Life by Catherine Reef), but it was Paul Hendrickson's amazing Hemingway's Boat that pulled me in. It's a detailed portrait that shows the man in all his personas: charming, romantic, a macho big-game hunter and fisherman, a bully, neurotic.

I was then given the hefty The Hemingway Women by Berenice Kert, which totally absorbed me and provided information from a different perspective.



I then read A Farewell to Arms and was captivated by the writing.

I also loved A Moveable Feast, written later in life when he reminisced rather romantically about his time in Paris in the 1920s.

But I then discovered a copy of one of his earliest books The Torrents of Spring, written in 1925. This is a bizarre book unless you know why he wrote it, a fact that shows a perverse and mean side to his character. A friend and mentor, Sherwood Anderson, had just written a book that critics praised, saying he was America's greatest writer - a label Hemingway wished to have. So he wrote a parody of the novel, poking fun at the simple style and in some cases actually paraphrasing paragraphs. Everyone told him not to publish such a cruel book, but he went ahead anyway. Not surprisingly the friend never spoke to him again. Modern readers, like me, are likely to find it silly and pretentious, though I did read a review that praised it as 'clever and witty' and Hemingway scholars will find clues in it that foreshadow his very characteristic writing style.

On my shelf, still to read, is Hemingway's last novel, True at First Light, an account of hunting in Africa, and a book I found in a secondhand shop in country Victoria for $5: My Brother Ernest Hemingway by Leicester Hemingway.

George Orwell


My second obsession is with George Orwell, aka Eric Blair.  I read a marvellous biography Orwell: Wintry Conscience of a Generation by Jeffrey Meyers that, while being extremely detailed, was a powerfully penetrating portrait of the man, culled from contemporary accounts interviews, archival documents, photographs and his body of short stories, articles, non-fiction books and novels.
Evidently he had a peculiar relish for discomfort and a need to be thoroughly unhappy, not a hard task as he was permanently weakened by bronchitis.
I loved facts such as:
  • Animal Farm was rejected by five publishers before being accepted
  • Nineteen Eighty Four was described by one critic as 'cynical rot'.  



These classics are well known, so it was a pleasant surprise to read the semi-fictionalised account of his time in Burma as a police officer in Burmese Days. It is an unsettling tale of life in British-held Burma in the 1920s, a scathing attack on imperial bigotry, racism and corruption with many scenes incredibly moving in their intensity and honesty, yet balanced with evocative descriptions of the heady scents of the exotic plants, the dry, dusty roads, the stifling humidity and the alien native customs.




Next, was Coming Up For Air, another one of his early novels.


There's little plot but a lot of captivating descriptive writing: a man reminisces about his past and decides to revisit the scene of his childhood. Orwell's whole approach to this novel is unorthodox and intriguing as he describes the minutae of everyday life, but it shows his early confidence and command of the English language.

Similarly, Keep the Aspidistra Flying shows Orwell's ability to write about ordinary people in ordinary situations that grips the reader and propels them into the lives of his characters.

While not a man who was easy to like, his often tortuous life experiences coupled with his social conscience have left us with works of immense power that continue to move us.

Sunday, 13 March 2016

The Monster From the Black Swamp

Yesterday we drove to Currency Creek, 10 kms north-west of Goolwa and about 30 kms from home. Here, we did the Black Swamp walk, a one-hour loop walk through native bush, around the swamp,  and alongside the Currency Creek vineyard. It was peaceful, quiet and, in contrast to our recent overseas jaunt, very Australian.

















And no, there was no monster (that was just to grab your attention). Instead, the swamp is home to many rare and endangered species. Not being into bird watching, I am not sure if any of the many birds I saw flying overhead, swooping into the swamp or darting into the trees were actually rare; I could only identify a pink and grey galah!  

There being no actual monster, I had to improvise.


It was extremely hot and humid, so a post-walk sauvignon blanc at the winery was most welcome.






Sunday, 6 March 2016

Myanmar adventures


They went out into the glaring sun. The heat rolled from the earth like the breath of an oven. 'Oh dear, this heat, this heat. It's too terrible to have to walk about in this sun every day'. 

So wrote George Orwell in his novel 'Burmese Days'. And it's just how I felt . We were in Myanmar in February and it was HOT. But it was exhilarating to be here in a country long-closed to the outside world. We are two of an expected 5 million visitors this year, keen to discover its ancient culture, explore the diverse landscapes and find out how the people feel about their future.

YANGON: city of 6 million people
First stop, Yangon (formerly Rangoon) the commercial hub, full of chaotic traffic, colonial buildings and people, millions of them. Here are two of my favourite buildings.

Yangon City Hall


The Secretariat where the 32-year old Burmese Nationalist leader Aung San was assassinated in 1947; fortunately the building is being restored as a museum and cultural centre, while many others of this era are being demolished. 



 We visited a park where I liked this shot of two girls under a parasol on the steps of the Independence Memorial.


The Bogyoke Aung San market is a vast emporium of stalls selling handicrafts, jewellery, clothes, lacquerware, wood and bamboo items, tacky souvenirs and food. I had fun inspecting lots of jade jewellery and even bought a beautiful Burmese ruby ring.



The spiritual heart of Myanmar is the Shwedagon Pagoda, a dazzling labyrinth of shrines, pavilions, and temples built on a hill overlooking Yangon; its glitzy bell-shaped stupa can be seen for miles. It's the most visited site in Myanmar and I think every tourist in the country was there when we visited, though Steve was somehow able to get a shot of me alone.


It's important for Buddhists to know the day on which they were born and there are special corners at the pagoda, each representing a day of the week. I gravitated to the 'Sunday' corner and dutifully washed Buddha three times.


BAGAN: a photographer's dream
Bagan has one of the most important collections of Buddhist architecture in the world - hundreds of temples, pagodas and stupas more than 1,000 years old strewn across the dusty, scrubby landscape. Our guide explained that there are so many because when someone wanted to curry favour, ensure success or give thanks, they donated a stupa or temple. Here is a selection.











Watching the sun rise over Bagan is very popular. I have to admit I am not one for sunrises so this is Steve's photo.

Horse and cart is the best way to explore Old Bagan though hiring motorbikes is popular too.



Visiting local markets is always a great way to see how other cultures live. Here are three views of  a market in Bagan.


Note the woman's face paint. This is known as 'thanaka' and is a sandalwood comestic paste reputed to keep the skin healthy and protect it from the sun. The women often paint decorative stripes and patterns with the paste.
Following the market visit, our guide invited us to a wedding of a friend of his. All guests received a fan with the bride and groom's name, occupation and wedding date. What an experience.



More pagodas. A cliche perhaps but Steve had fun when he saw the image in my glasses.


Monks kept asking us to have our picture with them - evidently they were fascinated by my fair hair and Steve's height!  These particular monks were from Upper Burma and rarely saw tourists so we were a bit of a novelty.

On the road again we passed this peaceful scene.


It was a privilege to visit the village of Min Nan Thu near Bagan and be shown how the people lived. Here, plums are being dried.

Everywhere we went, the people were always friendly and happy to see us. I especially loved the children.



























To finish the day we watched the sunset on the Irrawaddy.



MANDALAY
The heat was getting to me - more temples and pagodas. I envied the dog.




The 200-year old 1.2 kilometre long U Bein teak bridge is a much-photographed site. Its charm escaped me but hundreds of tourists were clustered here to watch the sunset either walking over it or watching from boats.

   





















GLIMPSES OF MYANMAR
Throughout our travels we enjoyed watching artisans, farmers and people going about their daily work.

Making peanut oil 


Weaving


Praying to the Nats- Burmese ancient animist spirits

Dyeing cloth



Winnowing sunflower seeds



Fishing


Havesting seaweed



The floating gardens at Inle Lake




A CONTRAST

We visited a typical Myanmar tea room where locals go for breakfast, lunch and dinner and all times in between for tea, noodles and sweet goodies.
 

We had delicacies such as tapioca and sago slices and mushy purple bananas




We had a decadent afternoon tea at the posh Strand Hotel with its colonial-era architecture, palms, rattan furniture and ceiling fans - rubbing shoulders with the ghosts of Rudyard Kipling, George Orwell, Somerset Maugham and Noel Coward.

The Strand's version of lemon meringue pie



















After two weeks alternating between the unforgiving sun and arctic-airconditioned hotels, we were totally exhausted but have never-to-be forgotten images and experiences of an amazingly diverse country and its friendly, welcoming people. 

Of course my account needs to have a sunset shot to end, so here it is (courtesy of Steve).