Two Go Adventuring in New Zealand: Part 1 Banks Peninsula/Oamaru

[This is the first blog I've written on my new computer, so may have to adjust fonts and photo positions in the future. We'll see. I'm still learning.]

Snow-capped mountains. Blue glacial lakes. Ancient beech forests. Gushing waterfalls. Velvety-green hills dotted with sheep and cattle. Sky-high hedges bordering farmland. Gloriously colourful gardens. Very friendly people. This was the New Zealand that we experienced in our short two-week stay. And to top it off, it was weather perfect with (mostly) blue skies, fluffy white clouds and no wind. Well, ok. It rained one night and for an hour the next morning. Here’s a taster of what we saw.

Our adventure covered the south of the South Island of New Zealand.

After a 4-hour direct flight from Adelaide we hightailed it out of Christchurch and headed to the town of Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula around 80kms away. 

Banks Peninsula

The peninsula itself formed after numerous volcanic eruptions many thousands of years ago, resulting in the deep valleys, precipitous headlands, rolling hills, tranquil lakes, bays and streams that we encountered. It was first settled by the Maori 800 years ago. I reckon we explored and saw much of the region by taking the many drives available.

The roads were very winding, the scenery peaceful and gently dramatic. Hills topped with granite rocks, lush grassy fields with grazing cattle, deep valleys with tiny settlements clustered around a bay, clouds swirling through the mountain.

Akaroa

Akaroa is the main town on the Banks Peninsula, nestled beside a lovely harbour. It’s been home for the Maoris for 800 years, but in 1840 a ship brought a group of French settlers. Although the British had claimed this region a few days earlier, they allowed the French to remain. The settlement was, however, not a success. But the French influence remains in the town in the form of the 19th century buildings, French street names, the French language being spoken by some,  and, we were told, descendants of the original settlers. These days, it’s very much a tourist thing with French food, French names for businesses (our accommodation was La Rochelle) and lots of lavender and roses.  

The town is almost in two-parts - the first being the old Victorian buildings and houses and beyond, a modern precinct of clothing and giftware stores and bars. It’s also the departure point for cruises, kayaking

 trips and other tourist activities. 

Being spring, the gardens were exuberantly colourful and so well cared for. I loved them. 

Strolling on I discovered a quirky side to the town. I spotted some spotted cows 'grazing' in a garden...

... and an artist painting the war memorial.

We visited the museum where the town’s history (both geological and human) was brought to life through exhibits of cutlasses and axes, clothes, sailor’s buttons, furniture, whaling paraphernalia, a video and photographs. Through the museum we had access to the only remaining original French house; it’s been restored to its bare bones but there was a sheet of original wallpaper housed under glass on one wall. 

The lighthouse is regarded as the main tourist attraction here. Built in 1880 it was transferred to this site in 1980 when it was decommissioned; a community preservation group bought it for $1 and had it transferred to this much safer spot. It was a Sunday so lots of tourists here.

We drove a little further out of town to the site of an inter-tribal uprising when a tribe from the north attacked an Akaroa tribe, leading in part, to British intervention and the Treaty of Waitangi. A Maori pole  is on the site, but its now-peaceful setting made it difficult to imagine the violence and bloodshed that had occurred here.

A little further on and we came to Onuku, a small Maori community. Here was a lovely church built in 1878. What a tranquil setting. 

Oamaru

The following day we headed south a few hours to Oamaru, a smallish town serving a rich agricultural hinterland. Its harbour was once a flourishing port, exporting the region's wool, beef, lamb, wheat and grain products. Beautiful classical 19th century buildings that were once banks, government offices, and hotels lined the main street.

Former post office 1883

Former Bank of Otago 1871

But we were heading for the famous Victorian precinct - a collection of perfectly preserved 19th century buildings that were once stables, grain and wool stores, and warehouses. These were built using the local limestone and today house a diverse collection of craft stores, bookshops, art galleries, gift shops, lolly and tea shops, flower shops, cafes, and an enormous vintage clothing complex. But back in the 20th century, a depressed economy, the closure of the port, and a shift in commerce, saw a decline in the area. No-one could either afford to keep the buildings a going concern or to demolish them. And so they remained, ghostlike, until a local preservation body (much like the one in Akaroa) took over and the buildings are now leased to community businesses. They are a huge tourist attraction and, we were told, Netflix recently filmed John Steinbeck's novel 'East of Eden' here recently because of its wonderful atmosphere. We enjoyed strolling around and enjoying the unique spaces.

   

   

Steve eyes off the maid ...

... while I select an outfit. 

We bought a couple of books here.

 

Our last stop was to see the Steampunk Headquarters, housed in a grand old building near the river. I discovered that this is a world-wide movement of science fiction meeting the steam inventions of the 19th century. It has taken off big-time in New Zealand. It was closing when we got there but I'm not sure it was for us, though I did love the intriguing sculptures.  

Oamaru was worth a visit but sometimes it felt a bit 'theme parkish'. That's a bit unkind, I know, especially as the buildings have been preserved and given a new life and the community has benefited from the tourists. (There were bus loads of Japanese tourists when we were there). But it seemed that everything was aimed at visitors and a bit pricey, too! Having said that, a brochure announced the Oamaru Heritage Celebrations  - starting next week - a wonderful program for both tourists AND the community of displays, dances, films, talks, markets, guided tours, a penny farthing bike race, vintage steam train trips, a masked ball... Hmm. I take it all back - I would love to be there. 

Next destination - Dunedin.

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