Two Go Adventuring in New Zealand: Part 1 Banks Peninsula/Oamaru

[This is the first blog I've written on my new computer, so may have to adjust fonts and photo positions in the future. We'll see. I'm still learning.]

Snow-capped mountains. Blue glacial lakes. Ancient beech forests. Gushing waterfalls. Velvety-green hills dotted with sheep and cattle. Sky-high hedges bordering farmland. Gloriously colourful gardens. Very friendly people. This was the New Zealand that we experienced in our short two-week stay. And to top it off, it was weather perfect with (mostly) blue skies, fluffy white clouds and no wind. Well, ok. It rained one night and for an hour the next morning. Here’s a taster of what we saw.

Our adventure covered the south of the South Island of New Zealand.

After a 4-hour direct flight from Adelaide we hightailed it out of Christchurch and headed to the town of Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula around 80kms away. 

Banks Peninsula

The peninsula itself formed after numerous volcanic eruptions many thousands of years ago, resulting in the deep valleys, precipitous headlands, rolling hills, tranquil lakes, bays and streams that we encountered. It was first settled by the Maori 800 years ago. I reckon we explored and saw much of the region by taking the many drives available.

The roads were very winding, the scenery peaceful and gently dramatic. Hills topped with granite rocks, lush grassy fields with grazing cattle, deep valleys with tiny settlements clustered around a bay, clouds swirling through the mountain.

Akaroa

Akaroa is the main town on the Banks Peninsula, nestled beside a lovely harbour. It’s been home for the Maoris for 800 years, but in 1840 a ship brought a group of French settlers. Although the British had claimed this region a few days earlier, they allowed the French to remain. The settlement was, however, not a success. But the French influence remains in the town in the form of the 19th century buildings, French street names, the French language being spoken by some,  and, we were told, descendants of the original settlers. These days, it’s very much a tourist thing with French food, French names for businesses (our accommodation was La Rochelle) and lots of lavender and roses.  

The town is almost in two-parts - the first being the old Victorian buildings and houses and beyond, a modern precinct of clothing and giftware stores and bars. It’s also the departure point for cruises, kayaking

 trips and other tourist activities. 

Being spring, the gardens were exuberantly colourful and so well cared for. I loved them. 

Strolling on I discovered a quirky side to the town. I spotted some spotted cows 'grazing' in a garden...

... and an artist painting the war memorial.

We visited the museum where the town’s history (both geological and human) was brought to life through exhibits of cutlasses and axes, clothes, sailor’s buttons, furniture, whaling paraphernalia, a video and photographs. Through the museum we had access to the only remaining original French house; it’s been restored to its bare bones but there was a sheet of original wallpaper housed under glass on one wall. 

The lighthouse is regarded as the main tourist attraction here. Built in 1880 it was transferred to this site in 1980 when it was decommissioned; a community preservation group bought it for $1 and had it transferred to this much safer spot. It was a Sunday so lots of tourists here.

We drove a little further out of town to the site of an inter-tribal uprising when a tribe from the north attacked an Akaroa tribe, leading in part, to British intervention and the Treaty of Waitangi. A Maori pole  is on the site, but its now-peaceful setting made it difficult to imagine the violence and bloodshed that had occurred here.

A little further on and we came to Onuku, a small Maori community. Here was a lovely church built in 1878. What a tranquil setting. 

Oamaru

The following day we headed south a few hours to Oamaru, a smallish town serving a rich agricultural hinterland. Its harbour was once a flourishing port, exporting the region's wool, beef, lamb, wheat and grain products. Beautiful classical 19th century buildings that were once banks, government offices, and hotels lined the main street.

Former post office 1883

Former Bank of Otago 1871

But we were heading for the famous Victorian precinct - a collection of perfectly preserved 19th century buildings that were once stables, grain and wool stores, and warehouses. These were built using the local limestone and today house a diverse collection of craft stores, bookshops, art galleries, gift shops, lolly and tea shops, flower shops, cafes, and an enormous vintage clothing complex. But back in the 20th century, a depressed economy, the closure of the port, and a shift in commerce, saw a decline in the area. No-one could either afford to keep the buildings a going concern or to demolish them. And so they remained, ghostlike, until a local preservation body (much like the one in Akaroa) took over and the buildings are now leased to community businesses. They are a huge tourist attraction and, we were told, Netflix recently filmed John Steinbeck's novel 'East of Eden' here recently because of its wonderful atmosphere. We enjoyed strolling around and enjoying the unique spaces.

   

   

Steve eyes off the maid ...

... while I select an outfit. 

We bought a couple of books here.

 

Our last stop was to see the Steampunk Headquarters, housed in a grand old building near the river. I discovered that this is a world-wide movement of science fiction meeting the steam inventions of the 19th century. It has taken off big-time in New Zealand. It was closing when we got there but I'm not sure it was for us, though I did love the intriguing sculptures.  

Oamaru was worth a visit but sometimes it felt a bit 'theme parkish'. That's a bit unkind, I know, especially as the buildings have been preserved and given a new life and the community has benefited from the tourists. (There were bus loads of Japanese tourists when we were there). But it seemed that everything was aimed at visitors and a bit pricey, too! Having said that, a brochure announced the Oamaru Heritage Celebrations  - starting next week - a wonderful program for both tourists AND the community of displays, dances, films, talks, markets, guided tours, a penny farthing bike race, vintage steam train trips, a masked ball... Hmm. I take it all back - I would love to be there. 

Next destination - Dunedin.

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An Exciting Trip

Thirty five years ago (October 1990) my friend Maggie and I started the Bellerive Historical Society. I say ‘friend’ although we’d only recently met. However, we discovered we shared a love of history. We realised that the lovely town of Bellerive opposite Hobart on the Derwent River’s eastern shore where we had both settled had so much history - but not much was documented, and the people I asked for information about the old buildings would say, ‘Oh I don’t know. It’s always been there’.  

For the next few years we established regular meetings, a newsletter, guest speakers, took people on historical walks around the town, began a photographic collection and wrote books on Bellerive heritage.

Fast forward to today and the Society is still going and still attracting new members. The current President invited me to join their 35th anniversary celebrations. These included giving a speech to members at their monthly meeting, then attending a reception at Government House the following day. How could I resist? Off I flew to Hobart.

My talk was well received. I met people I hadn’t seen for years and there was lots of reminiscing and laughter. The following afternoon we set off for Government House. A friend was trying to get the entire Government House into this photo and slightly disregarded Maggie and me. 

Into the gracious reception room we gathered. Here, Her Excellency the Governor (Barbara Baker) made a speech about the Society and what we had achieved in its early years. And then … quite unexpectedly, she called on Maggie to receive a gift and make a short speech, which she did beautifully even though it was on the spur of the moment. And then it was my turn. I was so nervous I have no idea what I said. Surprises are great, but I wish we had been warned. The Huon pine bowls we received were lovely.

Here I am nervously shaking hands and saying ‘Thank you Your Excellency’

And here is Maggie, me, Her Excellency and Mike, the BHS President.

More mingling over an elegant afternoon tea and then it was all over. An exciting moment in my life. Here I am in the ballroom. I needed one more photo to assure me I really had been here.

Lovely to catch up with friends Andrew and Jane.

Maggie and I are proudly displaying our Huon pine bowls.

I spent the next few days strolling around the streets and getting reacquainted with Bellerive. I loved the coastal path with its views of the river, the rock pools, limestone caves and the distant Mount Wellington.

The houses are all beautifully looked after and, being spring, the gardens were awash with flowering magnolias, rhododendrons, wisteria and a host of cottage garden plants. 

And lastly, a glimpse of my former home.

Watching bandicoots scamper across Maggie’s lawn was a ‘David Attenborough’ moment for me.  

We had a couple of fabulous meals overlooking Kangaroo Bay and the moored yachts.

What an exciting few days I had. Staying with Maggie in her charming apartment, rediscovering the delights of Bellerive, catching up with people I hadn’t seen for at least 20 years, and battling the fierce Tasmanian winds are memories I will always savour.