Borneo remembered

Friends are going to Borneo soon. This brought back memories of the trip Steve and I made over 35 years ago, in 1988. We had originally wanted to visit the tropical rainforests of Queensland but, at the time, air fares were very expensive and a fare from Perth was $1,000. For $400, we could go to Borneo. And so it was. Kate came with us. I'm sure there's a lot that has changed. A highlight for us was a trip to Sandakan to see the orangutans. There we were allowed to roam freely and mingle with these lovely creatures as they seemed to enjoy interacting with us. However, I'm pretty sure that freedom for tourists has been curtailed as the animals are now very much endangered and the authorities are wary of people transmitting diseases. Luckily I have my diary and photographs to jog my memory. Unfortunately I wasn't that interested in photography back then so the photos are not the best - and after so many years have started to fade. My diary, however, brings the whole trip to life.

Kota Kinabalu

We began our journey in June in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the state of Sabah, in the north of Borneo. We stayed in a lovely beach resort right on the South China Sea.  We soon set off to explore the city. I remember lots of open-air markets. My diary records ' sellers crouched over bunches of tiny bananas, dried fish, mangoes, pineapples, lychees, chilies, ginger, taro, cabbages, beans...'. It was extremely humid.

The food at the resort was wonderful. Of course I always loved the desserts as my diary entry attests: Fabulous icecreams, sherbets and fresh fruit for desserts'. How's my 80s hair!!!! 

The next day Steve went off to snorkel near Manakun Island, 10 minutes off the coast. Meanwhile, Kate and I caught the tour bus for a half-day tour that was included in our hotel stay. We visited a lot of places and indeed, for a hotel tour, it certainly kept our interest and we learnt so much. My diary records ' houses on stilts over the river, water buffalos swimming in the muddy water, farmers pushing buffalo-drawn ploughs, and all around, luxuriant green vegetation'.  We stopped at a suspension bridge which we walked across, swaying unsteadily. Water buffalo swimming below lazily eyed us.

In the afternoon we all caught the boat to Gaya Island, part of the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 15 minutes away. We set off on one of the many trails through the jungle. I'm not one for humidity and the trail was a very steep climb and within five minutes we were sweating profusely and our legs were aching. I remember the millions of cicadas that whirled around us in a deafening hum while vividly coloured butterflies flitted in and out of the trees. We finally reached the highest point on the trail feeling a sense of accomplishment. Heading back we could hear monkeys grunting and swishing through the foliage but could not see them.  

We do look pretty exhausted here.

Kinabalu National Park

The following day we visited Kinabalu National Park, two hours from the capital, It was a tiring but exciting day. The drive there revealed picturesque vistas at every turn, from little villages clinging precariously to mountain slopes, banana palms and bamboo in the green valleys below, to Mt Kinabalu looming ahead shrouded in clouds. We arrived at the park and headed for the start of the mountain walk - certainly not aiming to reach the top and check out the sunrise as many do! Instead, we gave ourselves two hours before we were to be picked up again. 

Moist rain fell as we began. We passed a waterfall tumbling about 75 feet down to large boulders and stones.

The track started to get steeper and our legs began to ache, though the vegetation growing by the side of the track - tiny orchids, mosses, vines, a profusion of ferns and the hard-to-spot pitcher plant - was a welcome distraction.  Gnarled tree roots snaked over the track, dark branches loomed overhead. On we went, humidity and effort wearing me out. Steve and Kate continued on for a while - while I rested! 

Eventually they returned and we headed back to the park entrance and our driver.

Poring Hot Springs

We were headed for Poring Hot Springs, about 35kms away. The road, if you could call it that, consisted mostly of boulders. We bounced and tumbled on, past small villages with bamboo houses on stilts. (That evening as I was writing in my diary, I remembered the drive so vividly): 

Goats lay in the middle of the road, cows ambled through the traffic, while geese, sheep, water buffalo and cats made up village life. Streetside markets were occupied by villagers selling vegetables. We continued our rough, roller-coaster ride through flooded river beds and up steep hillsides until finally we reached Poring near the village of Ranan. 

Before we made use of the thermal springs, we took a trail through the steamy jungle to a magnificent waterfall and then visited a huge stone bat cave hidden among the vines. The bats darted in and out of the cave in an endless whirring flutter. We were certainly looking forward to the baths by now. Poring's thermal springs were used by the Japanese in World War II where they built baths for the men's recreational use. At the time of our visit the baths were still in use with huge taps pouring hot and cold water into the concrete tubs. All of this was set in beautiful gardens of exotic, brightly coloured  rhododendrons, flame trees, day lilies, frangipani and orchids. 

We chose some tubs away from the main ones and finally managed to get the temperature of the water just right. Here we are feeling refreshed.  The springs themselves where the water was being piped from were behind us, steam and vapours rising continually from them. 

Afterwards we dived into the rock pool, a crystal clear pool built around the rocks and surrounded by the garden - heavenly.

Sandakan

We flew to Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah (386 kms away) to visit the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary. This rehabilitation centre we were told ' provides a safe haven for orphaned and injured orangutans',  nurturing and training them to live in the wild and then releasing them back into the jungle. We walked slowly on a path through the jungle - and there we found them. Three young orangutans with reddish-brown fur and big appealing eyes. Two more swung through the trees to inspect us. One came straight for Steve's camera - we had been warned about this and had tried to keep our cameras close to our body. When the orangutan couldn't get it, he attached himself to Steve's arm, not in a threatening way, he was just being curious. 

Others were now swinging and tumbling from vine to vine, crashing with loud crunching noises and surrounding us. It was a surreal and exciting experience. And because we were there before feeding time (when the crowded tour buses arrive) we were all alone.

They especially liked Kate and took her hand, walking with her into the jungle. Everywhere she went, they would attach themselves to her until she would pick one up. It was a lovely experience for her as the photos show. (Knowing this couldn't happen today makes this a very special treat.)

 

. 

After all this excitement, we watched them being fed, then decided to do another jungle walk. It was very hot and steamy and we kept stopping to take deep breaths and to towel ourselves dry. We eventually climbed to a viewing platform. It was wonderful to see the vines, creepers and trees from a different angle, but I can't say I was sorry to return to the park headquarters.

Sarawak
We flew further south to Kuching, the capital of the state of Sarawak.  The following day we headed up the river to the Damai Beach resort. We had been booked here as part of a travel writers' deal for Steve, so we had a guided tour of the place and then were taken to a local village - Santibong- a small fishing community consisting of traditional stilt houses with leaf roofing. 

Children were playing, goats and chickens grazed and people smiled and waved at us. A wedding ceremony had been held that morning and the villagers were celebrating with a huge meal under the trees. However, in the house of the head man, the bride and groom was preparing to eat their first meal together. And then... oh my goodness, we were invited to join them. Although we were strangers from a different country it is traditional to welcome us into their home and have us join the celebration to bring good luck to the couple. So, in we went in our jeans and t-shirts, feeling rather embarrassed. Seated around the walls were their special girl friends all in gorgeous dresses. They were shy and hid their faces from us yet kept sneaking intriguing looks at us. 

The bride and groom then appeared in their traditional outfits and sat on the richly decorated carpet. Dishes were then set out on the floor before them: meats, rice, vegetables, pineapple, eggs - and finger bowls as the food is eaten by the right hand. The bride's grandmother served them then suddenly motioned to us. We moved forward and sat crosslegged with the bride and groom and the grandparents.The bride's mother for some reason was not included; in fact she was behind me. 

We were given plates and a finger bowl. 

I thought she was telling me not to take a photo, but no, she was inviting me to eat! 

The bridegroom chatted away to Kate and asked about high school and where she was from. 

I kept smiling and nodding at everyone, thinking how strange this was that we were sharing the bridal food. My diary noted: The village video tape was being operated and we suddenly became the star performers. In weeks to come they are going to see me stuffing my mouth with rice and nodding and smiling.  It was an experience I'll never forget. And I haven't. 

The next day we were taken to Turtle Island where they raise young turtles to the size where they can survive. Kate was allowed to hold one in her hand. We visited the laboratory, did some snorkeling, swimming and walking around the island. A good day.

Kuching

The following day we returned to Kuching and explored the city.

The city occupies both sides of the Sarawak River, with commercial businesses on one side and residential on the other.  We followed a walk that took us to a 100-year-old Chinese temple, an old colonial building called the Bishop's House, a park, a mosque, and the open markets which were  stacked with fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat and chickens. 

Across the river we could see the large white stone building that was the palace of the last white Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Brooke.

A final stop was to visit the museum which we thoroughly enjoyed.

Up the Skrang

I think the most memorable part of our trip was the boat ride up the Skrang River to an Iban longhouse where we stayed the night. All these years later, I still have the most vivid of memories - the 5-hour road trip over a tortuous, boulder-strewn 'road'; the fabulous trip upriver balanced precariously with our bags on the flat-bottomed dugout canoe with outboard motor; the longhouse and its friendly people; the steamy jungle and the 24-hour-long thunderstorm; the animals...

The long boats used for travelling upriver. 

Steve and Kate disembarking at the longhouse.

My diary records our arrival: 'We climbed out of the canoe and waded over some rocks to reach the ladder - a very tall tree trunk cut into steps. Up we climbed to find ourselves in the longhouse 'village' - a cluster of rooms around a long wooden deck, its stilts rising steeply from the muddy soil, with animals housed below. 

There were 23 families living here; daytime activities took place on the covered verandah which ran the full length of the longhouse. Off this verandah were the rooms belonging to the families. There was also a kitchen and storerooms. A wooden deck also ran the entire length of the longhouse open to the elements. Here is part of the outside decking that was used to store a range of items.

I look at my photo album now and regret that I didn't take many photos.  No wide-shot of the longhouse, no animals, no families carrying on their everyday activities (weaving, woodcarving, cooking...)  I was more interested in talking (as best as we could) to the families and showing an interest in their way of life. As well, it was very humid and after a while heavy rain disrupted any outdoor activity making photography impossible. 

  

In very sticky but fine weather the head man took us through the jungle and showed us how to use a blowpipe.

But without much warning the sky opened and heavy rain started sheeting down. We scuttled back to the longhouse. The thunderstorm was to continue for the next 24 hours we were there. 

The lovely families in the longhouse dressed in their ceremonial costumes for us.

They put on a fabulous concert of music and dance ...

.. and in which were expected to good-naturedly participate. Well, Kate and Steve did, to much applause.

I only include this ghastly photo of our longhouse adventure because it makes me laugh. 

I was given the hat when it started to rain and thunder and they thought we looked funny. I guess we do!

After dinner and the concert, the whole 'village' sat in their family groups around small lamps. Mattresses covered with mosquito netting were put out on the verandah for us as the rooms were still very hot. We slept fitfully that night as the animals below us never stopped grunting, growling, barking and squealing.  At 3:00am the rooster began.......... 
Homeward bound

The next day we retraced our trip upriver and over the rocky road back to Kuching. 

And then to Singapore and then finally Kuala Lumpur. A flight delay to Perth had us staying overnight courtesy of the airline so we spent a few hours in the largest shopping mall browsing and buying.

My diary eloquently records: It was a great trip. Apart from the humidity. 

************************