A Tasmanian Odyssey in Five Parts: Part 3

Part 3: The Huon Valley
Even though we were in the lush Huon Valley south of Hobart, the temperature was soaring and we were soon in the low 30s.  Our base was Geeveston, a small-scale forestry town, where we stayed at the delightful Cambridge House with its lovely garden and scrumptious breakfasts.

On our first day we drove along the Huon River, stopping at Franklin, a bustling riverside town with cafes, antique and craft shops, a cider company, and a wooden boat centre.

How cute is this little family?

Airing the feathers!

Franklin

A highlight for me was our visit to Franks Cider Bar and Cafe.

Scones and jam and cream, a Portuguese custard tart and lashings of ginger beer.
What more could a girl want?

We then noted a sign on a boat saying 'Sailing today'. We decided to take the cruise along the peaceful Huon River in a 1930 sailing ketch named the Yukon that had been rescued from Copenhagen, restored and sailed to Tasmania. The first owner had made a small fortune in the Yukon gold rush of 1900, hence the name.  It was a perfect afternoon.

 Steve even got to do some work hauling up the sails for our return trip.

Ship ahoy! How nautical do I look.
And I didn't even know we were going on a cruise when I dressed that morning.

The next day was my favourite of all our days. We did a walk in the Hartz Mountains National Park. I love the feel of isolation. At times you feel as if you are on top of the world with the hazy mountains unfolding around you. And it was a bit cooler up here.

 I loved the native waratahs on the way.

First stop: Lake Osborne, a lovely glacial tarn

More pretty wildflowers.

Then Lake Esperance.

 Finally, to Ladies Tarn near the Pass where we turned back, foregoing the steepish scramble up to the peak - we knew our limit!

 It was quite hot by now and we'd been walking for about two hours. The track was fairly good with duck-boarding most of the way, some jagged stones in some parts, and a small section which I didn't like of smooth-faced rocks and poking out roots to scramble over on a steep descent.

But the views were spectacular.

The next day it was off to the Tahune Air Walk along the Huon and Picton rivers.

 It was great to be walking in the canopy. The air walk stopped at a huge cantilevered lookout.

 I was reassured when a sign said they had tested the load bearing capacity and it was equal to 120 people or 12 baby elephants!

We did two more walks in the area: one that involved two swing bridges...

...and another through a mixed rainforest.

I feel rather insignificant with these giants.

What a monster.

We finished our Huon Valley journey with a trip to Roaring Beach which I swear has the squeakiest white sand ever!!!!!

On our last evening we went for a celebratory birthday dinner (yes, a month early) at the Sass Restaurant at the Kermandie Hotel between Geeveston and Port Huon. It was amazing!!! A gin and tonic on the deck...

... followed by a delicious dinner (lamb shanks for me)...

... and of course, dessert: Huon heritage apple, raspberry and walnut crumble for me and chocolate pudding for Steve.







Next stage: The Tasman Peninsula

A Tasmanian Odyssey in Five Parts: Part 2

Part 2: The Central Highlands
From Smithton we headed to Deloraine, a busy town that seemed to have lost a bit of its charm since we last visited so, after picking up a picnic lunch, we moved on to our destination for the day: Liffey Falls. We parked at the upper car park and walked down through a lovely forest...

 ... until we came to the river ...

 .. and the first of three falls.

Then the second falls.

... and the iconic third falls. Unfortunately there was not a lot of water; in good times the water extends to the far left and right of this photo.

We met a young guy from Germany who asked if we wanted a photo.
It would have been churlish of us to say nein!!!

After a refreshing picnic lunch we drove through dry and rugged country...

 ... to the Pine Lake walk, just off the Highland Lakes Road.  These trees are not really pines at all but evergreen coniferous trees. They grow round the shores of highland lakes, are an ancient species that evolved before flowering plants.They are endemic to Tasmania and can live up to 1200 years old. However, they are endangered due to the constant fire threat. Years ago they suffered from the phytophthora (root rot) disease and the walk was closed. But the trees are recovering and the walk is now open again. We spent a lovely time here.

A noble specimen.

Next destination Bothwell. We remember it as a lively highland town but on this visit it seemed a pale reflection of this; in fact Steve said it was more like a ghost town as we wandered around seeing nary a soul. At times it felt as if we were on a deserted film set. But the buildings were captivating and there remains a strong sense of history with many Georgian buildings listed on the historic buildings register.

The only sign of life we saw.

A deserted building.

Built in 1850 as a shop and residence Bothwell Stores has an imposing presence.

The roses were prolific here and we couldn't stop taking photos of them.

 We stayed at Batts Cottage. This was a National Trust registered Georgian cottage built in 1840 from convict bricks. All the bricks above the fireplace had the convict arrow on them.

I adore window-and-flower shots.

Our final stop in this area was at Kempton, originally the home of the Big River tribe of Aborigines, and first settled by Europeans in the 1820s, when two convict stations were established here as well as sheep grazing. It was the first overnight stop on the Hobart to Launceston run. A very small town but a few lovely old buildings, and we wandered around the cemetery for a while, sighing at the sad loss of early lives. 

A handsome blue church.

Steve goes all creative. 

Fernleigh, built in the 1830s for free settler and doctor Thomas Gorringe
 who combined his practice with brewing beer.

This is the former Dysart House. Built in 1842 as a coaching inn run by a former convict, it has had a varied life, including a stint as a girls college and, more recently, home to Australian arts and food doyen Leo Schofield.

It is now home to the Redlands Distillery. I always loved driving past this building and imagining I could live there.





And so ends our highland adventure.

Next part: The Huon Valley